The Indy Burger Guy visited Between the Bun again on Friday, June 15, 2018. Read up on the Burger Guy’s past visits by checking out his reviews of the Bleus Brothers Burger (formerly the Big Daddy), the Thai One On (currently unavailable), the Cookie Monster, and the Brickyard Burger!
There’s something to be said for a great balance of flavors. It was one of the things I praised Between the Bun’s Cookie Monster burger for when I reviewed it – a symphonic harmony of salty, sweet, and spicy from the bacon, cookie butter, and sriracha that topped the burger that helped to create a truly unique burger experience. Balance is often incredibly underrated in this era of massive overloaded burgers. Unfortunately more attention seems to be paid to what toppings can go together on a burger instead of what toppings should go on a burger (to paraphrase Ian Malcolm).
That being said, my experience with the Hawaii Five-O at Between the Bun was an exercise in overindulgence. The burger – one of the few holdovers from the Greenwood burger shop’s ‘old menu’ I’d not yet tried – is a flame-grilled Between the Bun beef patty topped with a melted slice of cheddar cheese, sauteed pineapple, crispy smoked bacon, and a housemade Piña Colada sauce.
While I will not attempt to deny that this is a tasty burger, it lacks the balance of some of the other more carefully curated burgers that Between the Bun has to offer. To start, I was expecting the sauteed pineapple to be a slice of fresh pineapple grilled right alongside the burger itself. Instead, it was topped with what was obviously canned pineapple chunks that had been sauteed on a flattop grill. This was a bit disappointing.
However, next to that, I found the aforementioned flavor balance to be… off. At times, the burger was almost cloyingly sweet, probably due to the combination of the sauteed pineapple and the Piña Colada sauce. Other times, I found the burger overly salty, as though the typically spot-on seasoning was done a bit more aggressively than usual.
Again, this is not a bad burger – I find it incredibly playful and creative, but ultimately it fell short of the high standards I’ve come to be able to apply to Between the Bun’s usual fare. If you’re in the mood for something different, you could do a lot worse, but there are a lot of other options at Between the Bun that I’ve found preferable. Do with that what you will.
FINAL RANKING: 7.9/10
Between the Bun
102 S. Madison Ave.
Greenwood, IN 46142
Cost Range: $$ ($7-$12)