The Indy Burger Guy visited the Jaggers in Greenwood on Saturday, August 5, 2017. To read his previous review of Jaggers from their Noblesville location, check out the review of the Crazy Good Cheeseburger.
One of the biggest problems I find myself faced with in finding a place to review for this blog – whether new or returning – is carving out the time necessary to do so. Practically every place I’ve been to thus far with few exceptions has been a sit-down restaurant, which presents its own issues for anyone who’s in a hurry or strapped for cash. Generally, you’ll find yourself waiting to be seated and waiting for your food and needing to make sure your servers are properly compensated for their time and efforts. That’s time and money, both of which seem more valuable than ever these days.
It was nice, then, to rediscover that Jaggers – a test concept from the owners of Texas Roadhouse – has and maintains a drive-thru window for those days where both seem particularly valuable. Cruising into their parking lot, I was at the window and back on the road in less time than I’ve waited at more established fast food restaurants. And the overall quality here is significantly better!
For my return visit to Jaggers, I opted for a burger I recalled seeing in an Indianapolis Monthly piece last year as I was putting the concept for this blog together called “Indy’s 13 Best New Burgers.” Having previously tried two other burgers from this list – the 317 Burger and Porky – it seemed a good time to check another off the list while I had the opportunity.
And this burger, I can say with certainty, is an exercise in flavor, efficiency, and freshness. The burger is a double patty burger – fresh seasoned beef ground on site daily – that comes topped with two oozy, melty slices of pepper jack cheese and roasted mild green chiles. These provide a goodly amount of spice without being at all overwhelming or overpowering to the great beef flavor of the burger. There’s also the standard ‘deluxe’ ingredients – shredded iceberg lettuce, tomato slice, and diced white onions – and a garlic mayo that provides a nice saucy element and helps manage the heat of the peppers.
The bun, too, is worth noting. I took some time in my first Jaggers review to talk about it, but I’ll extol its virtues a bit further here, especially since (as I mentioned last time) it is made for a double patty burger. I’m given to understand that the buns at Jaggers are par-baked when they arrive, then freshly baked everyday in the restaurant, which does nothing but help the overall freshness of the burger. They have some density to them without being thick and heavy like a badly-baked pretzel bun. That’s a helpful quality, too, because this burger is a messy one!
There are a lot of disparate elements at play here on this burger, but they are very well balanced. The bun itself stands up to them well (good integrity on this dense bun!), but they still managed to find their way onto my hands as I was eating. Between the cheese and the mayo, there’s a lot of gooey-ness at play here, which is really only a bad thing when it begins to leave a mess.
The stars here, though – other than the beef, naturally – and the reasons this burger is such a stand-out, are those fresh roasted mild chiles and the ooey, gooey pepper jack cheese. The chiles and pepper jack form a really great mild heat that keeps itself in check. I’m not overly fond of things that are hot for the sake of being hot – which is why I’ve never eaten a ghost pepper or any of the other insanely hot hybrid varieties of chiles. I like heat when there’s some flavor behind it and not just hot for the sake of being hot, y’know? The way these chiles are roasted, though, and the way the cheese and the mayo and even the veggies work to offset them creates a really great balance that helps to blend them into the overall flavor of the burger.
Even though the patties at Jaggers aren’t of the smashed variety, the way the beef and cheese are assembled here is reminiscent of what I love in a smashed patty double cheeseburger. That is to say, I love the way the cheese and the patties seem to meld to form what seems to be a single giant patty of cheesy, beefy goodness. The Green Chile Cheeseburger at Jaggers has that singular quality and that is no bad thing.
FINAL RANKING: 8.8/10
Two Central Indiana locations – in Noblesville and Greenwood
Cost Range: $–$$ ($6 and under; $7-$12)*
*Jaggers single-patty burgers range in price from $5-$6, while the double-patty burgers can go as high as $7.