The Thai One On @ Between the Bun.

The Indy Burger Guy visited Between the Bun in Greenwood again on Sunday, June 4, 2017. For more information about his previous visit, read his review of The Big Daddy (which has currently been renamed to the Bleus Brothers Burger).

Toward the end of last year, I asked you – my faithful readers – to choose the place where I would get a burger to review on Black Friday. You chose Between the Bun and I was delighted to report that the Big Daddy (which was, at the time of my visit, their signature burger) was as delicious as advertised! But ever since I left, I began to wonder – when would I be able to make it back for my next burger?

When some family business drew the Mrs. and I down to the south side of town, I found my opportunity. I managed to talk the Mrs. into swinging by on our way to attend to some business and we were glad to have one so!

After trying the signature burger last time (which is still on the menu, but by another name… and no longer listed as a ‘signature’), I was free to try what I wanted to, but I found myself drawn to the burger that won the 2015 Indy Burger Battle – the Thai One On (called the Sriracha Ranch Burger at the time of its victory)! It seemed like it might be a bit on the spicy side, but I wanted to try an award-winning burger, so I indulged!

When I heard the name Thai One On, I’ll be honest – I was expecting more of a Thai influence. My wife and I love Thai food (we live pretty close to one of the best Thai restaurants in Indy – Sawasdee!), so I was hoping to see something truly Asian-inspired – maybe with the flavors of green curry, Thai basil, chiles and garlic, or a savory peanut sauce. Instead, the most Thai thing about the burger was the Sriracha ranch sauce that served as the burger’s primary condiment. So, the Thai inspiration was a bit of a letdown…

…fortunately, the burger itself was really, really tasty. The half-pound, flame-grilled patty was topped with melted pepper jack cheese, smoky bacon, sauteed pickled jalapenos, and the aforementioned Sriracha ranch sauce (liberally applied) all atop a toasted brioche bun.

If those toppings sound familiar, it’s because they are almost identical to those found on the Flamme Burger (which itself won the Indy Burger Battle in 2016) with a few key differences – Between the Bun subs pickled jalapenos for Flamme’s fresh serranos, pepper jack for Swiss cheese, and ranch dressing for aioli.

I’d be lying, though, if I said the flavor profiles weren’t similar. However, I did find that the Thai One On had a milder flavor overall than the Flamme Burger did (which, for me anyway, was a plus – I’m not a *huge* fan of too much heat – I think I’ve mentioned that before…), likely due to the use of pickled jalapeno slices versus fresh chiles, which tend to be much hotter.

There’s a great balance tot his burger as well. Despite the sheer volume of spicy ingredients, the well-seasoned and perfectly-cooked beef really shines, which is no small task here. I find this burger significantly less overwhelming than the last burger I ate at Between the Bun, which is great because they use really good quality meat and prepare it very well. It’s a shame to cover that kind of skill with too many bold and overpowering flavors.

(The most hilarious thing about the Flamme Burger comparison, in my mind, is that I eventually ended up scoring both burgers the same! Not sure what that says other than that both burgers are mighty tasty, indeed! In fact, this score places both burgers in a tie for the #2 best burger in town!*)

And, while this burger is not quite as messy as the Bleus Brothers Burger (formerly the Big Daddy), the Sriracha ranch sauce does prove unwieldy, coating my hands and making for a completely used-up napkin by meal’s end. Still, the brioche manages to hold everything together without the bottom bun taking on too much moisture and soaking through!

(For those of you who are curious – my wife ordered the Cookie Monster, which comes with pepper jack cheese, bacon, lettuce, tomato, cookie butter, and Sriracha. After trying a bite of hers, I came to a very serious decision – I’m getting that one next time!)

Between the Bun’s Thai One On is a solid burger – enough heat to be interesting, but not enough to overwhelm the quality beef that serves as its center. Check it out next time you find yourself in Greenwood!

EXECUTION: 3.2/3.5
APPEARANCE: 1.3/1.5
TASTE: 4.6/5.0

FINAL RANKING: 9.1/10

THE DETAILS:
Between the Bun
102 S. Madison Ave.
Greenwood, IN 46142
btbindy.com
Cost Range: $$ ($7-$12)**

*In my humble estimation, anyway…

**Only the Sevin Bacon Burger clocks in above $12 (and, at $12.49, just barely so).

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