After heading out to an Indy Fuel hockey game with my Mrs and some friends of ours, we opted to head over to one of our favorite burger spots – B Spot at the Iron Works (mainly because our friends had never been before). I’ve talked on and on about B Spot before (check the links at the top of the page if you either haven’t read my past reviews or don’t remember them), so I’ll skip a lot of the usual build-up and jump right to the specifics on the burger itself.
Since I’ve been through Michael Symon’s SoBe Burger Bash-winning burgers, I’m on to the rest of the menu now, so I figured I’d start with the burger named after Symon’s flagship restaurant in Cleveland, OH – Lola Bistro. (The bistro itself, I discovered, is named after Symon’s aunt.) The Lola Burger is topped with melted cheddar cheese, bacon, pickled red onion, and that most divisive of all burger toppings, the fried egg.
I say ‘most divisive’ because I know a lot of people who won’t even so much as try a burger if it has a fried egg on top. I’m not exactly sure why, but there’s a lot of questioning as to whether or not said topping really belongs on a burger. Personally, a fried egg is one of my favorite “unconventional” burger toppings. I mean, I’m not particularly shy about what I put on my burger, even if I may raise my eyebrow a bit at first. I’ve had burgers with peanut butter and jalapenos, burgers with blueberry jam, and burgers with asparagus. The sky’s the limit, I say!
That said, I do enjoy the fried egg on a burger. The runny yolk provides a saucy element, eliminating the need for any mayo or other condiments, but also provides a robust richness that compliments the beef of a good burger wonderfully. Add some bacon, and the whole thing just sings!
Michael Symon seems to understand this in his composition of the Lola Burger, but he also seems to understand that, left unchecked, that richness can be incredibly overwhelming. For this reason, B Spot includes pickled red onions on the burger, which are absolutely wonderful! The tangy vinegar jolt cuts right through the richness of the egg yolk and salty-meatiness of the bacon to provide a really excellent flavor contrast and, ultimately, balance. The beef – comprised, as always, of Michael Symon’s signature blend of ground sirloin, brisket, and spare rib – was cooked to a perfect medium (a welcome relief after my experience with the Fat Doug on my last visit) and was well-seasoned, as per usual.
The egg was cooked sunny side up, which tends to cause a good deal of runny yolk, making for a messy eating experience, so eatability suffers as a result. However, the brioche that B Spot uses for all their burgers manages to hold everything together well without falling apart on the job, which is nice.
And what better side for the Lola Burger than the Lola Fries – thin-cut French fries seasoned with fresh rosemary that taste like wonderful roasted potatoes and pair excellently with the smoky heat of the Lola ketchup served at each table. All-in-all, it was a Lola kinda day!
I’m honestly glad to see that the overcooked beef incident with the Fat Doug was an aberration rather than a new normal, because Lola – more than anything – felt like a return to form, more like my earliest experiences with B Spot. Plus, our friends enjoyed their visit as well, so who could really ask for more at that point, right?
FINAL RANKING: 8.9/10
2727 E 86th St. Ste. 165
Indianapolis, IN 46240
Cost Range: $$ ($7-$12)