The Indy Burger Guy visited Gatsby’s on Tuesday, January 31, 2017. Read his previous review of The Stand-By Burger.
When my schedule allows for such things, I enjoy meeting my father for lunch… and one of his favorite spots, as I’ve mentioned before, is Gatsby’s Pub & Grill on Indy’s northwest side. Luckily for me, they have burgers there, so I’m beyond content.
So much a fan of Gatsby’s is my father that he’s currently on a first name basis with most of the waitstaff and even the owner. When we went at the end of January, he managed to talk the owner into moving his favorite lunch special (the shepherd’s pie) to another day because he wasn’t going to be able to make it in on the day she was planning to serve it. The fact that she was more than willing to acquiesce pretty much tells you how loyal a customer my dad’s been to Gatsby’s over the last year.
With only three burgers on their menu (not counting the D.I.Y. burger on their menu), I didn’t have many options (having already reviewed the Stand-By Burger last year*) but figured I couldn’t go wrong with a burger topped with a fried egg.
If you’ve not tried a burger topped with a fried egg before: (a.) you’re missing out on one of the great, simple joys in this life, and (b.) the Bacon and Egg Burger at Gatsby’s is a great one to start with. Generally speaking, when I’ve ordered egg-topped burgers in the past, I get two questions from my server – “How do you want your burger cooked?” (if you know the blog, then you know the answer for me is always ‘medium’) and “How do you want your egg cooked?” (for me, again, the answer is ‘medium’… or ‘over-medium’).
Our server, Heather (herself a fan of the blog and friend on Facebook – hi, Heather!) asked me the former question, but not the latter. That gave me significant pause. Eatability is a major factor in what makes a good burger. I should be able to take several bites, and perhaps even finish the burger, without significant issues or messes. An overly-runny yolk tends to make for a messy burger-eating experience and can definitely effect a burger’s eatability.
Turns out, I needn’t have worried. Whether by sheer force of luck or simple intuition, the egg – much like a beef – was perfectly cooked with just enough yolk to add richness to the flavors of the burger without becoming overly runny and messy. The great umami flavor of the egg contrasted nicely with the crispy, smoky, salty bacon, making for a really solid breakfast burger. Iceberg lettuce, red onion, a tomato slice, some pickles, and mayo rounded out the toppings on this really simple burger.
The bun was a slightly-toasted kaiser-style bun which is definitely not my first choice. My dad actually went out of his way to let Heather know of my preference for brioche buns, which led to her assurance that she’d talk to the kitchen staff about upping their bun game. So maybe I’ve accomplished something with this blog after all, by spreading awareness of the superiority of brioche as a burger bun. Or maybe the pull my father has at Gatsby’s can’t be overstated.
Either way, Gatsby’s delivers a solid burger experience. It’s nothing fancy and there’s nothing over-the-top wonderful about the burger, but it’s solid, serviceable, and tasty – perfectly cooked to order over a flame and beautifully seasoned. I’d recommend ordering a side of their tater tots, which are crispy and oh-so-good! (My dad, in case you were curious, recommends the cole slaw, which he is thrilled with largely because it doesn’t contain cilantro, which he’s noticed many restaurants around town have started doing – a practice he detests almost as much as he hates cilantro.)
FINAL RANKING: 7.8/10
Gatsby’s Pub & Grill
6335 Intech Commons
Indianapolis, IN 46278
Cost Range: $$ ($7-$12)
*With three links to it on the page, you have no excuse not to read it. Well? What are you waiting for?!